A beach trip in February just always seems like a good idea when you’re sun-starved and cold! Staying at Playa Grande Beach Club was beyond loveliness. On my bucket list for years now, after originally reading about the property, designed and owned by Celerie Kemble, in Architectural Digest pre-pandemic. I got to check it off my travel list and add to my “I’m coming back every year” list. Come along as we explore the pastel cottages and sun-kissed shores of the Dominican Republic–Playa Grande Beach Club.
I decided the minute the airline made you put your phone on airplane mode that I wasn’t ever going to take it out of airplane mode or check the internet while we were away. Novel idea I know, but something I’ve never done before because…what if. What if there is an emergency? But I wanted a break. I craved a break. I wanted to be unreachable by everyone and everything. No news (which I loathe in general and avoid at all costs), no texts, no email, no anything screen. I was just short of throwing the phone and iPad in the ocean.
Doesn’t life feel like its spinning unsustainably fast sometimes? From those abhorrent ten minute school drop off windows in the morning to email correspondence expectations, everything about my days have felt hurried as of late. The bungalows have no TVs (God bless them!) but we did bring laptops/iPads for potential family movie nights (we never used them, don’t bother bringing them or better yet, throw them in the ocean). It was more fun laying on the beach at night watching the stars and playing board games which you can find in the hotel’s lovely library.
I happened to be reading Mark Comer’s new insanely popular book “The Ruthless Elimination of Hurry” (READ IT NOW, there’s a reason it’s a best seller!) which couldn’t have coincided better. I don’t think I will ever take another vacation and edit my pictures, engage with the world or be reachable ever again. This trip was bliss. Soul-craving bliss. Do it the next time you travel. Be unreachable. Ironically the world keeps on spinning despite the what ifs.
We went back and forth trying to decided whether we should squeeze ourselves into the one bedroom and stay longer or the three bedroom with a shorter stay. Finally opting for more space for our crew and being intentional with our time. I love how these cottages are laid out both in proximity to each other on the property via meandering coral stone paths (I think there are only nine bungalows) and spatially within, all rooms reachable via a wrap around porch. The inside/outside living is magical after a New England winter. We flew JetBlue into Puerto Plata. It was about a 1.5 hour drive from the airport to the hotel. Have the hotel arrange transport because you’ll never find it on your own.
The two bedrooms upstairs, each with their own en suites complete with copper tubs, were divided by a common room / play space for the kids. The houses are roomy without feeling massive or unnecessary and perfectly appointed. Every detail, every piece of trim work, the wrap around porch–it all came together into a lovely home away from home.
Entering the grounds is like stumbling upon the garden of eden. It’s quietly lovely, removed from the world, a hidden gem tucked away in a sort of jungled dream. Lush, subtly colorful and unique, I’ve never experienced this kind of property. It was luxurious without being in your face or extravagant in a way that makes you feel uncomfortable but so thoughtful that you feel at ease to linger, move slowly, explore the nooks and truly vacate.
You feel taken care of, needs anticipated, and most importantly, safe. No one ever asks you for a room number because they just know. The fixtures are made by a local metal artist and they flow beautifully throughout the property from the iron gates when you enter to the metal leaf bed that unfortunately didn’t fit in my carry-on. I wanted every light fixture, scalloped trash can and soap dish. And the minute you step out of the car and the sweet staff hand you a welcome drink it is instant island bliss. Welcome to Playa Grande Beach Club, where Aubrey doesn’t share green drinks.
Matt and I remarked frequently throughout the trip how perfect this property is. Not too big that you lose your kids, not too full that you’re overwhelmed by people but enough visitors to make friends and chat, enough kids for our kids to make friends and enough quiet to disengage completely if you want to. Guests felt safe enough to leave their phones all over the place, computers by the pool all day. Like an era gone by.
The pool is right off the beach which is public but there is security stationed there quietly 24/7. There are no obnoxious slides or overtly kid-related fun but our kids had so. much. fun. the entire time! They have pool toys tucked away in a bin, boogie boards which my boys used every day and balls to kick around and throw. We brought pool toys, the same ones we hauled to France last year but only brought them out towards the end of the trip. The beautiful cabanas are a joy to simply be in the presence of and the perfect spot to eat your 15th order of plantain chips with guacamole.
We ate every meal at the hotel which is not included in your room but reasonably priced and delicious, and enough that we had several meals that were simply left overs we brought back to our bungalow and heated up for the kids. Next time though I will pack my own oat milk and snacks because you do have a full kitchen. We went through my bag of nuts on day 2, simply because Aubrey would wake up early and none of the rest of us were ready for breakfast. Also of note, the hotel filters its own water from a private spring. It is safe to drink right out of the tap which isn’t normally the case on the island. No one got sick and I didn’t see a single plastic bottle or straw the entire time. The kitchen uses stainless steel straws and the staff fills up glass bottles for you and keeps them in the refrigerator.
This was the kiddo’s first tropical trip. They’ve never snorkeled, never seen palm trees or enjoyed delightfully warm ocean waters. So I bought these full face snorkel masks (and these kid versions) which Matt called “a game changer” and we set out on a snorkel trip and sea cave expedition. I had no idea what a treat we were in for. The hotel set up this adventure for us and sent along a security guard. Ten minutes away from the hotel is a lovely lagoon where you hop a cute painted boat and meander through the mangroves out to the ocean. Now the snorkeling was not great. They drop you off in a little cove with not much happening in terms of coral or sea life below. I’m not sure this part of the Dominican Republic has epic snorkeling but the kids saw some pretty fish and loved the experience. Our intention next year will be to drive 2.5 hours to see the whales who migrate in to a bay to have their babies.
We so enjoyed our stay in the Dominican Republic–Playa Grande Beach Club was lovely in every way. Perfect for a special family gathering, honeymoon, tech escape or a place to simply return to sanity, read good books, actually enjoy a dark sky and zillion stars or sleep in to the glorious sound of the waves. I almost don’t want to hit publish on this one because I want it all for myself. But alas, I like you all too much and so appreciate the talent of Celerie Kemble and her lovely tropical hideaway!
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